Dogs Obedience Training

November 17th, 2008 by admin

In my experience, as a dog owner, it can be a nightmare to find a rental home that allows dog(s). All you have to do is look in the classifieds under rentals to see why. Probably 95- 100 percent of the ad will state no pets.

The few that will allow dogs sometimes will only allow a small dog. The ad may even state a specific weight like 20 lbs or less. I never understood this. A small dog can be just as destructive as any big dog can. I have also seen many small dogs who were much more vocal than some big dogs. I have even seen little dogs that were extremely aggressive. So what is the benefit to a landlord to allow a small dog but not a large dog. I would love to know the answer to this question because it has never made any sense to me.

Lord help you if you dare to have more than one dog things get even more complicated. Even the type of dog can cause undo problems for a dog owner. I remember when we had 2 dobermans. The landlord was ok with us having 2 dogs in the beginning. After we moved in he stopped by and realized they were dobermans and had all kinds of problems with it. I think part of it was a house insurance issue. Which is a whole other topic I would like to discuss at another time.

However there are things you can do to help persuade a potential landlord. First of all make sure you dog is well behaved. Maybe even put him through the good citizen course. Upon completion he will get a certificate for it. This basically says your dog has passed a test of basic manors and is well behaved. This certificate can be used to show your new landlord that your dogs are well behaved.

Once I called a landlord that had a listing that said absolutely no pets, even though I had 2 dogs and a cat at the time. The place was perfect for us and had all the things we were looking for. I felt like we had nothing to lose so I called them. I asked them if they were willing to meet us and our dogs and see how well behaved they were. When we met with them they saw that the dogs were very well behaved. Seeing us make the extra effort for our dogs may have help sway them also. At that time we also offered a separate cash deposit for the pets. Part of it was to be non refundable and part was refundable after a year. I think a non refundable deposit for a pet is more than reasonable. The landlord should be able to clean carpets and treat for fleas regardless if there are any just for peace of mind for the next tenant.

The other portion was a refundable deposit. We allowed walkthroughs once a month for the 1st three months to ensure them that the dogs were not doing any damage to their property. After one year they walked through again and refunded our deposit although we continued to live there after the first year.

Cash security deposits can be an additional incentive to help convince a landlord to trust you and give your dog(s) a chance. The deposit affords them some protection in the event that damage is caused by the dog(s). Your deposit shows the landlord that you trust your dog not to cause damage. I love when I feel like I have helped convert a landlord to be a pet friendly renters. I hope that anyone given the chance to rent with a dog respects the opportunity they are given. Each time a landlord has a good experience renting to a dog owner the better it is for the next dog owner. All it takes to do this is to be a good dog owner. If your dog does happen to damage something make sure it is repaired before you move out.

References can also be a big help in bolstering your case to a potential landlord. You could even invite you potential landlord to visit you at your current place. This gives your potential landlord a chance to physically see that your dog is not destructive. Be creative you know can sometimes change a landlords mind with a well behaved dog and some incentives. Landlords are just worried that there rental will get destroyed sometimes they just need to be shown that it does not have to be that way.

I would say that the majority of adult dogs are not destructive. I also believe that when it comes to puppies the risk is far less now do to the increasing use of crate training.. Crate training young dogs and puppies drastically reduces the opportunity for a pup to cause damage in the home.

Having done some painting over the years for some landlords I have seen my share of damaged apartments. I am here to tell you that human being do far more damage than any dog I have ever seen. The worst I have seen dog wise most commonly is when the dog owners leave these poor dogs locked up or left behind to defecate all over the place. More realistically the landlord will have to freshen the carpets and maybe plant a little grass seed. I have owned many dogs over the years and honestly any damage that has been done was usually to our stuff not the structure of the house. Examples shoes. remote controls. pillows couches etc. The only damage to any home from any dog I have had has been a few scratches in the wood by the door and maybe some grass missing from wear in the back yard.

November 15th, 2008 by admin

After you have taught your dog to sit consistently you can move to the sit stay command. See “How To Teach Your Dog To Sit“. When I say consistently I mean he will sit for you in a quiet house as well outside in the backyard with a bunch of people and activity. You always want to cement one command before adding on to it.

Now that you have a solid sit and he will sit under all circumstances we can move on. The next command is the sit stay. This is basically a much longer sit then just a sit command. Personally in everyday life I would never use a sit stay. If I wanted my dog to stay a good length of time I would put him in a down stay. That being said lets move on.

Start with your dog on your left. Sit your dog. Then with the leash in your left hand signal your dog to stay. To do this you bring your right hand across, palm open in front of your dog’s face and say “stay”. As you do this pivot around and stand facing your dog. Keep your arm straight out fingers pointing up palm facing your dog. It will look like you are stopping traffic. Count to 5 and return to your dog’s side the same way you left him. Make sure to keep your hand in front of your dog until you are back at his side. Praise and release. To release your dog after a command you can say “okay” and walk a few seconds with your dog. It can even be just a few steps in between commands.

I suggest you use a flat buckle collar to teach your dog new commands. For sit stay I would turn the collar so the clip is up. This way when your attach the leash and hold it above his head it helps convey to him not to move. The tension on the leash and the hand signal in combination help him understand what you want. If you did not use these your dog would instinctively want to move when you do. If your dog does move quickly step in towards him saying “no” and put him back where he was when he broke the command. When you say “no” say it quick kind of like a distraction. Sometimes I use a quick “hey” or “ep” sound. Right now we are teaching so do not be harsh with him. I use the vocal distraction to give the dog feed back so he knows where he went wrong so to speak.

When teaching commands I like to repeat the command. So as you step around in front of your dog with your hand out I would repeat “stay stay stay”. When you say “stay” you need to say it evenly. If you use a high or excited voice your dog will want to come to you. You also do not want to say it so firm as the dog feels that he is being scolded either. Some trainers feel like you should only say the command once and that is it. Now I do believe that once your dog truly knows the command you should not repeat it over and over. If you do he will learn that he does not have to listen the first time. But I think that has to do with obeying and that is a different phase then the teaching phase. As he learns the sit-stay command you need to phase out repeating “stay stay stay” . You will also test him with just a hand signal or just a verbal command. Use what you need as long as you need to. When he seems to understand the command but you are using verbal, hand, and repeating of commands reduce the repeating until you only have to say it once. Then reduce hand signal to a quick hand signal in front of his face in stead of holding your hand in front of his face the whole time.

Always start in a quiet place but change environment as he improves. When he understands the command add some distractions. this improves his attention to you and the command. After he really understands this command you can start to increase the amount of time he stays and the distance from you. The rule is not to increase both at the same time. You can start by going 3 feet in front of your dog but still keep it 5 seconds. Or you could stay in front of him but make it 10 or 15 seconds. Never increase either until he is perfect in the time or distance you have previously set. In other words if he can not stay for 15 seconds do not try to do 30 seconds. As always start in a quiet spot and test in a different spot with distractions before you move on to longer times or distances.

November 15th, 2008 by admin

The sit command is probably the first command most people teach their dog. It has many practical uses and can be applied to many situations. A dog in sit position can not be involved in another activity such as jumping etc. It is also often used as a way of asking your permission and showing respect to you as the leader.

Often dogs are taught to sit before the are allowed to eat or go out. This basically teaches and reinforces to your dog that you are the leader. Teaching your dog to sit before he goes out or eats or goes up the stairs is also very practical.

A dog racing you up the stairs or bolting out an open door can be dangerous especially if you have children. A dog that is taught to sit before it goes out a door is less likely to run out the door when a child opens it also. Children that are old enough should ask the dog to sit as well before going out or feeding them. It helps let the dog know where his place is in the family pack. Your dog’s place in the pack should always be at the bottom.

There are two basic ways of teaching the sit command. The first is to put your dog on a leash and place him on your left side. With the leash in right take your left hand and slightly push on the top of your dog’s butt and push down. When his bottom touches then you say “sit”. This way he understands that sit is when his bottom is on the ground. This was the way I was taught in my first dog training class. Some dogs did fine with this but some resisted. The owners that had dogs that resisted were told to squeeze hard right in front of the dogs hip bones as they pressed. If your dog does sit with the gentle version of this fine. If not move on to my on to the second way to teach a sit.

The second way to teach a sit is really the best way to it. In fact I think it is the only way a sit should be taught. Even if you are gentle with the above method it still won’t work for some dogs. Some dogs are very sensitive to touch. When you touch them it actually distracts them from learning. And the rough version is unacceptable to me. Learning should be fun not painful and frustrating for you or your dog. The method I prefer to use to teach a sit is lure training. It is basically what it sounds like. You use a piece of food or maybe your dogs favorite toy to lure him into a sit.

Take the lure item and hold it close to your dogs nose and lift if up and behind towards his back. Do not let him grab it from you until his bottom touches the ground. When his bottom touches the ground say “sit”. There is no point saying sit to your dog before he actually learns what it means. If your dog keeps scooting back place him with his behind close to a corner. When he has nowhere to back up to he will hopefully sit for you.

After some practice he will learn to sit faster because he is starting to get it. He is learning that he does not get anything until he sits. When he starts sitting quickly you know he probably understands. To really test this you say sit without the lure in front of him. If he sits give him his reward. If he does sit on command over and over you know he understands the meaning of the word. Now when you train mix up the rewards. On the first sit maybe give him a treat. The second time maybe pet him a little. The third time just tell him excitedly what a good boy he is. This causes some confusion because he never knows when he is going to get a treat so he will sit each time. You do not want a dog who will only sit when he knows you have food.

Adding a hand signal for sit is pretty easy. You may want to teach this in case you are unable to tell him verbally to sit such as if he is at a far distance from you or talking on the phone. The hand signal is similar to the movement of luring into a sit. Start with your right arm down at your side, palm open bend your all the way up. By using the verbal command “sit” and the hand signal together it connects the two. Test your dog by just using the hand signal alone. If he does not sit using the hand signal alone go back to using both together. Eventually he will sit with either the hand signal or verbal signal.

After your dog learns to sit you need to clarify what sit means. Sit does not just mean to put your bottom on the floor. It means to sit and not get up until you release your dog. So after he understands the basic sit you want to ask more of him. To release your dog you say “okay”. You want to move him out of the sit as you say “okay”. You can do this by encouraging him to move forward and out of the sit. You can do this by moving back way from him or gently with the leash or collar. If he pops up before the command try to say “okay” as he comes up anyway. Either way it helps him make the connection. A good example is he is on the leash by your side in the sit position. As you say “okay’ you start to walk. Your movement and gently pull on the leash will encourage him out of the sit. As you progress you will move into the sit stay command. The sit stay indicates to your dog that he will be in the sit for some time.

Always make training fun. Keep each session short and successful. Always quit while your dog is doing well and you are happy. If you train to long he can get bored and stop working for you and you will get frustrated as well. You are always better off training 2 or 3 shorter lesson a day rather than one that is too long. For a puppy I would only train a few minutes at at a time working up to 15 minutes. Your puppy will let you know when the lesson is getting to long. If this happens adjust the lessons accordingly.

When we got our husky Buddy we found that although he was smart he was stubborn. At least that was what I thought then because he would learn a command quickly but would not necessarily do it over and over. I learned that he was not stubborn or stupid just not motivated. A lot of dogs will do something for you just to please you or for food(such as the Labrador). Apparently my Husky was more of a what’s in it for my dog. I thought about it from his point of view. What does Buddy love? Buddy loves to play. So I made a game out of it. When ever he sat or downed for me on command we would run a little. Sounds silly but that was his motivator. He loved it. It just made training fun for him. So if your dog is not motivated by food, praise or toys this may just be the ticket for you. It is a very good way for kids to train since it puts them in control of the fun their dog has when he listens.

Well good luck to all and as always keep it fun.

November 15th, 2008 by admin

The way you speak and move are very important in dog training. Your tone of voice and body language can actually be used as additional tools that can aid you in training your dog.

Dogs to not speak in words but do communicate to each other with an assortment of barks, grunts, yips, and growls. By using different tones we can mimick growls and yips etc. therefore conveying information to our dogs.

I will break it down into three overly simplified groups. The first is a high tone. This higher tone creates excitement in a dog. Excitement will encourage your dog to move and be active. This also you should use a high tone for praise. When you want your dog to come to you the higher tone is the best one to use. It creates the excitement you want which causes him to come quickly to you. It creates the needed enthusiasm you want for a quick recall.

A medium tone is what I would call a neutral tone. It is calming and is not really a reactive tone. This is the perfect tone to give a non moving command such as sit, stand, down, and stay.

Low or gutteral tones are usually reserved for stopping or reprimanding a dog for inappropriate behavior. It is the equivalent of a dog’s growl. It can be used as a vocal correction. Remember you do not need to yell, it is the sound of the low firm tone that tells the dog you are not happy with him.

Just as important is the way we use our body during training. When using body language you need to take your dog’s temperment into consideration. What may work for a dominant dog may overwhelm a very shy or submissive dog.

Author : Laura Walsh

[source: Dog Gone News]

November 15th, 2008 by admin

Voice commands are great because your voice can take on countless tones and you can form countless numbers of word commands for your dog. However, hand signals have some advantages over voice commands. First off, hand signals are silent. This is great if, for example, everyone is asleep or there is a party going on and so there is a lot of interference with sound. Also, hand signals are a great way for new friends of the dog. Dogs normally respond only to their owners voice and other people who they consider “masters” so to speak. It may take a dog awhile to warm up to a new person and obey their voice commands.

Hand signals are more advanced than voice signals and are best taught after the dog has learned basic things like sit, stay, and come. The reason for this is that when you are teaching your dog hand signals, you should do so in conjunction with your voice. Eventually, you should be able to drop the voice part and the dog will still understand you.

For example, my dog knows and obeys the “come” command quite well. I added in a hand signal for “come” by snapping my fingers and pointing to the ground near me. When I was first teaching her this. I would say “come” while using my designated hand signal. A treat or reward was occasionally provided as well. After some time, simply snapping my fingers, with or without the snap sound, was enough to get her to come to me.

Another hand signal I have taught my dog is to stay. I firmly raise my right hand and make the stop signal much like a traffic officer would do.

Teaching a dog both stay and come at the same time is a good idea since they go hand and hand. Both are very useful and I find that the hand signals get used more often because they are easier to perform.

Just remember that with any training, time and patience are the key.

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Author : Laura Walsh

[source: Dog Gone News]

September 15th, 2008 by admin

How can I stop my dog chewing my stuff? Well, to prevent the problem you’ll need to understand the reasons why dogs chew.

Most dogs have a natural desire to chew. It is fun, it is a self-rewarding, self-reinforcing activity and it passes the time. Chewing provides a nerous, bored, or lonely dog with an outlet for his emotions. To an anxious dog, the repetitive act of chewing is soothing - it’s the doggie equivalent of comfort food. Underexercised dog often use chewing as a way of burning up nervous energy and giving themselves something to do!

So now you understand why your dog chews, how do you prevent this chewing problem?

Remember to give your dog time to learn the rules, and plenty of ‘your time’ to help him learning faster.

Stop Dog Chewing Tips

Chewing problem can be easily fix but what it needs is a little effort from you. Here’s the steps on how to solve dog chewing problem:-

1. Set up a dog-proof home - take whatever you don’t want to end up in your dog’s mouth, and making it unavailable. Item such as books, eyewear, clothing, shoes, garbage, small crunchy appliances like cameras, cell phones, remote controls, and food or snacks on low tables or even countertops (if your dog can jump, climb, or leap onto something else to reach the desired object.)
2. Set Prevent your dog from learning the joys of illegal chewing. The more times your dog manages to snatch a jowful of a forbidden substance, the more readily he’ll target those items in future. If you can prevent your dog from chewing your stuff in the first place, it is a lot easier for him to understand what you expect of him.
3. Don’t confuse your dog by blurring the boundaries between his stuff(ok to chew) and your stuff (NOT ok to chew). Don’t offer your dog cast-off clothes, wornned shoes, or old towels to chew and play with. Your dog cannot tell the difference between the cast-off clothes and your new clothes.
4. Provide your dog with lots of tasty alternatives to your stuff. Give your dog two or three to play with at a time. Rotating the available toys every few days will keep things novel and interesting for your dog.
5. Spend lots of time in active supervision. Your dog can’t learn what you expect of him if he’s spending all his time boxed up in the dog-proof zone. He need the opportunity to explore the boundaries of your expectations. So your dog can understand what’s appropriate and what’s not.
6. When you catch your dog chewing something in appropriate, interrupt your dog by making a loud noise such as clap your hands or make an “Ah-ah-aaaah!’ noise. Then immediately hand your dog an alternative chew toy or bone. Once his jaws close around it, praise him generously. There’s no better way to get your dog to understand that chewing his toys equals praise from you, but everything else equals trouble.

September 12th, 2008 by admin

Yes - it can be done!

Many families combine having a dog with going out to work and school, often having to leave their pet alone for several hours at a time. This is not really an ideal situation when getting a young dog, and a question often asked by new dog owners is about how to house train a puppy when you are working full time.

Dogs Training

As I mentioned, it is not ideal to bring a puppy into your home if there is no one around to give it companionship (and boundaries) during such a formative time. My first recommendation would be to THINK HARD about whether the time is right to get a dog in the first place and that you take time to choose the right type of dog. Set aside your own emotions (and perhaps, also, pressure from the kids) and work out if you have the time necessary to give a dog the training needed. Ask yourself these questions:

- Will I really have the patience to not get annoyed if I come home from a hard day at the office and have to clean up dog mess?

- Can I find time during working hours to come home and let the dog out?

- If Not, is there someone who can do it for me?

If you are able to honestly answer yes to them, then you can learn how to house train a puppy and be able to teach your dog other lessons that need to be taught.

Here are my five steps on how to house train a puppy when you are working:

1) Plan everything with military precision, right down to the time of year you get your dog. Bring her home during the summer months, so that you are not inclined to rush the outside toilet time.

2) Bring your new puppy home during a period When your working life be less hectic - ideally when you have a couple of weeks holiday. That would be most ideal, as puppy house training can be completed in just a couple of weeks when done properly.

3) If you cannot get time off, plan it so that your older kids are off school so they can help with the training while you are out at work.

4) Discuss the training regime with other family members so that the training is consistent, even if the trainer is different!

5)Because time will be a major factor, read up on the most effective techniques by signing up for a training course before you get your dog. This will mean you can house train a puppy when you are working with as little stress and hassle as possible. I have created a lens on Squidoo specifically about house training dogs, so you will also be able to get some tips by visiting there.

Potty training your puppy is not that difficult. If you combine the latest techniques with my additional tips on how to house train a puppy when you are working, both you and your dog will have a great life together.

August 17th, 2008 by admin

Dog Obedience Training Secret

You should NEVER use the recall word (”COME”, or whatever word you choose) to call your dog to discipline him, correct him, tell him what a bad dog he is, or for any negative reason. Bad deeds MUST be caught IN THE ACT in order to correct. If you still need your dog by you for a negative reason, give him a firm SIT command and go get him.

For example:
Imagine this, you see your dog “Major” outside digging up your newly planted daisies. You first quietly say “Major, Come here”. Major, doesn’t respond. You then yell “MAJOR - COME HERE!”. Major still doesn’t come, so you go over and grab him by the collar and yell “I told you to Come Here!” and give him a smack.

Major being a smart dog, makes a mental note “Come Here” means “You’re in trouble and about to get punished”.

Next time when he is outside, and you want him to come inside for dinner you go out and say to him “Come here”, he responds by running away. “Dumb dog” you think and go and grab him and drag him inside so he’ll eat his food. Then you say sternly “How come you don’t ever COME when I call you?!” Major makes another mental note (Hmmm: seems to me my memory of “COME HERE” is still accurate - don’t want to respond to that - after all, “COME HERE” means I am in BIG TROUBLE!)

Remember, dogs know ONLY “dog language” when they come to live with us. WE must teach them our language. In the above examples, Major did not learn OUR translation for the word “COME”. He learned “COME” meant “angry owner - I’m in trouble now. Better scram out of here!” We want Major to learn that “COME” means “Get your buns to me in the fastest way possible - NO EXCEPTIONS!” Major needs to understand that COME means GOOD stuff - ALWAYS!

Click Here To Get Complete Guide

August 17th, 2008 by admin

Did you know that your dog may not know why you are trying to correct him? Learn how to make him understand. This will remove the frustration and rapidly increase the speed of your dog’s learning. (further communication strategies provided throughout)

All the secrets of professional dog trainers are revealed, and best of all are easy to apply! Stop wasting hundreds of dollars.

Need to stop your dog from trying to fight with other dogs? Learn the best ways to break up dog fights and prevent them from ever happening again.

Want to know how to curb your dog’s aggressiveness? Learn six powerful strategies for training aggressive dogs.

Does your dog require urgent dog house training? Learn the dog house training techniques you must know that get the fastest results, whether you keep your dog indoors or outdoors.

Sick of having your dog race out the front door? Read the Dog Obedience Training book and you’ll never have to worry about this again.

Got a dominant dog? We teach you how to deal with him.

Separation anxiety getting you both down? Find out about the best ways to make it go away.

Hate having your dog jump up on you? Learn six simple techniques to stop him jumping up on you ever again!

Neighbors getting annoyed with your pets constant barking? Maybe he doesn’t bark enough? Apply these advanced techniques so that your dog knows when and where it’s appropriate to bark.

Click Here To Get Complete Guide

August 11th, 2008 by admin

Dog behavior training creates a happy and obedient dog. It really is about you the owner. When your dog knows who is the pack leader and the alpha dog your dog knows who is boss. This creates a more stable environment for you your family and your dog. So dog behavior training is the best way to get your dog with the program.

Dog Training School

The best way to bond with your dog and be the alpha dog is to actually train your dog at on hands training class. You will learn many of the basics such as sit, stay, down, heal and front and finish which is where your dog comes to your side after facing you from a frontal position.

Dog Obedience Training

Dogs are Smarter Than You Think

Dog Training Techniques

Now I know your thinking ok and … Well your dog is a very visual creature and they depend on consistency, body language and cues. You do something different from what you taught them and it can be confusing. Train them one way do something different and now you have a confused dog. So consistency is a must especially if your the pack leader and alpha dog. On occasion your dog may challenge you and this is normal dog behavior. Challenging may be ignoring your commands or being stubborn, at this point it is imperative that your follow through and make your dog obey after all the alpha dog in the pack would not allow this behavior. I don’t suggest hitting your dog. A good example is a dog not coming to you when called. At this point you would go over and put a leash on or grab him by the collar and guide him to where you wanted him. Look at the video below and see how the dog responds to its owner.

I am against training with treats or treat training because what happens when your out of food. The best training is with a leash and some love and praise. Such as “good girl” or “good boy”. Leash training is the best method based on my own experiences, training and observations.

Get the guide here