Dogs Obedience Training

August 28th, 2009 by admin

Dogs are prey animals that existed in the wild as carnivores eating primarily raw meat and bones. Wild dogs rarely ate grain and that helped them to stay lean and mean. Dogs today are our beloved pets but they are still carnivores and many people believe that they should be fed the same diet that wild dogs once ate. Unfortunately, most commercial pet food is filled with grains and chemicals that experts say may account for the rising rate of skin allergies, gastrointestinal problems and cancer.

An alternative to chemical laden commercial foods that poisoned pets in 2007 is the B.A.R.F. (Biologically Appropriate Raw Food) Diet. The B.A.R.F. diet is controversial yet millions of people have switched to this way of feeding their dogs. Read on to discover some of the facts and controversies surrounding this popular method of feeding dogs.

What Is The B.A.R.F. Diet?

A Veterinary Surgeon in Australia, Dr Ian Billinghurst, created the B.A.R.F. diet and recommends that owners feed their dogs bones, fruits, vegetables, meat, eggs and dairy. His theory is that it is better to feed a dog completely raw food, imitating the types of food eaten by their wild ancestors.

What Food Can I Feed My Dog On The B.A.R.F. Diet?

There is much controversy in the B.A.R.F. community about what is included in the diet. Dr. Billinghurst states that vegetables and fruit are appropriate food to feed but others disagree. Most would agree that raw, meaty bones meat are a staple of the diet and that includes beef, chicken, deer, duck, game birds, goat, pork, lamb, fish, rabbit and veal. Some of the more controversial foods include eggs, vegetables, fruit, dairy, cooked cereals and supplements.

What About Handling Raw Food?

You should wash your hands before and after handling raw meat just (or wear disposable gloves) as you would while preparing food for humans. Be sure to disinfect cutting boards and countertops where meat is prepared. Many people believe that the dog digestive system is not as susceptible to salmonella, e-coli and parasites as humans. Many vets disagree.

How Much Food Is Fed Each Day?

On the B.A.R.F. diet dogs are fed according to their energy level. If your dog is very active it should be fed 2 to 3 % of their weight every day. A less active and more sedentary dog would get fed approximately 1% of their weight every day. This is not a precise measurement so it should be adjusted as your dog adapts to eating raw food. You should plan on feeding three or four times a day and preparing meals in advance.

What Are The Benefits Of Feeding Raw?
There is no scientific evidence that supports added benefits from feeding your dog raw food, but there have been many studies showing that commercial food is poisonous to our pets. People who are feeding their dogs raw food report that they save money and their dogs have less body odor, less bowel movements, cleaner teeth and reduced illnesses and medical costs.

Can Every Dog Eat Raw?

The simple answer is no. Most healthy dogs can adapt to raw food but dogs that are very old or that have chronic and serious illnesses may not be appropriate candidates for this type of diet. Some dogs will simply refuse to eat raw food. You should talk to your vet before the switch but be prepared for the doctor to discourage you from making this decision. Some veterinarians are heavily influenced by commercial pet food companies because they make a great deal of money selling the product. Ask your vet if any patients feed their dogs raw food and ask if they experienced problems adjusting to the change in diet.

Are There Any Side Effects?

Again, this is anecdotal information but many people report a detox stage in feeding raw food. This means the dog is adjusting to the diet and getting rid of toxins in their body. Symptoms your pet may display include vomiting, diarrhea, bad breath and itchy skin. Supplementing your pet with Vitamins C and E may help. If your dog has these symptoms for more than three days after switching diets, take them to your local vet. Ask your vet about the best method for changing your dog’s diet.

Raw feeding is not for every dog nor will it work for every owner. Be careful whenever you change the diet of your pets. Some proponents of raw food insist that a “cold turkey” switch is better but most vets will disagree and say changes should be made gradually. Educate yourself by doing research and reading some of the great books available on raw feeding before making the switch.

March 13th, 2009 by admin

Dogs bark because it is a natural behavior. Barking is used to alert their pack of possible danger and to give warning to others. This natural behavior can go astray when the canine is bored, stressed or for various other reasons. An analogy would be overeating in humans. Eating is obviously a natural behavior. However, if we are bored, stressed or suffer from various maladies we sometimes overeat. Natural behaviors can become unnatural given a toxic environment. This is what occurs with your dog barking excessively.

We therefore have a problem with a cause and a symptom. The cause of your dog’s barking is generally stress or boredom. The symptom is the headache inducing noise known as “excessive barking”.

As your dog’s leader and personal trainer, you would strive to eliminate both the cause and the symptom. Both canine stress and boredom can be alleviated by exercising your dog. A tired dog is a good dog. Exercise both his mind and body. This can be accomplished by walking your dog and obedience training. Different breeds will need different degrees of exercise. If you have a working breed like a Border Collie, you will need large doses of work to drain his energy reserves. Less active dogs will need less work.  

Unfortunately, it may take a great deal of time to reverse barking behaviors that have become ingrained. It would accordingly also be appropriate to address the excessive barking behavior directly. To do this would involve retraining your dog that excessive barking is unrewarding.

To retrain your dog not to bark, I’d suggest the following:

·   Create an environment where barking is unrewarding and quiet is rewarding.

·    Every time your dog barks inappropriately, go to him and command “NO.” Then, immediately, either spray him in the face with water from a clean spray bottle, or, give him a light, two-fingered pop on the nose. If you choose to smack your dog, keep in mind that your goal is not to inflict pain or injure your dog. You are only trying to ensure that his every bark is followed immediately by an unpleasant result. Be careful not to use too much force, and be especially careful dispensing punishment to puppies. The rule then is: Don’t hurt the dog. Just make sure that after each and every bark, he suffers an unpleasant result that is just harsh enough to cause him to want to avoid experiencing it again in the future.

·   Make sure that the way you smack the dog or whatever it is that you do to the dog after he barks, is something that he truly finds unpleasant. If he doesn’t mind what you are doing enough to want to avoid experiencing it again in the future, it is not going to work.

·   When the dog barks, go to where he is. Do not call him to you.

·   Go to him immediately after he barks.

·   Go to him every time he barks, for as long as it takes, until he associates barking with unpleasantness.

·   Your punishment should be so consistent that the dog comes to perceive it as an automatic and inevitable consequence of barking.

·   When the dog is quiet, reward him with your presence and your affectionate praise. 

Finally, if your dog is aggressive, consider hiring a professional dog trainer to assist you. Rehabilitating an aggressive dog will often involve the use of equipment that requires specialized knowledge and experience.

[source]

February 8th, 2009 by admin

There are many considerations to be taken into account when living with a dog or cat who is getting on in years, who is recovering from injury or surgery, or who is living with a chronic disease, such as arthritis, hip or elbow dysplasia, degenerative myelopathy, or worse.  There are a number of things you can do to help your pet live more comfortably.

Get a Grip
Your first step should be to modify your home environment to make it easier for your pet to get around.  If your dog has difficulty walking, particularly on hard surfaces such as tile or hardwood floors, put down area rugs in the places where he normally walks.  Rubber-backed rugs are best for this, but you can use any rug—just make sure you tack it down with double-sided carpet tape or use rubber carpet mesh underneath to keep it from sliding when your pet walks on it.  You might also consider using a non-slip spray on your dog’s paws (one such product, called Show Foot, was designed to keep show dogs from slipping in the ring).  You can also try rubber-soled dog booties for increased traction.  Your pet make need some time to get used to wearing boots, but once he does, he will thank you for the extra grip.

Ramp Up
If your dog or cat has decreased coordination, she may also have a hard time negotiating elevation changes, such as stairs, furniture, or uneven surfaces in the yard.  Use a baby gate to block off access to these areas or only allow her into the areas when someone is available to supervise her.  You should also consider getting a small ramp or set of stairs to make it easier for her to get on and off the furniture.  (If your pet has a hard time negotiating stairs, you can put a ramp over the steps to make the climb easier.)  

There are also larger ramps made to help dogs get in and out of cars more easily; some are folding and some telescoping.  Use whichever kind works best for you and your pet, but consider how high your car is when buying.  Some ramps are short and meant to be used only in the front passenger side door (doors in the back do not open far enough to accommodate it).  These ramps are also good for use with furniture in the house.  For most cars, though, a ramp 72″ long when extended works best, but for a big SUV or for dogs who need a gentler incline, consider getting a ramp that is 83″ long.  Please note: if your dog needs a ramp or stairs, we recommend that she wear a harness so that you can keep a hand on her while she is walking the ramp or stair; a harness will give you a handle to hang onto and it is much safer than holding onto her collar. 

Give Him a Hand
In addition to using a harness with a handle, you might also consider a rear harness if your dog or cat needs help getting up from a sit or down position or is paralyzed in the rear legs.  These rear harnesses fit your pet like pants and have two straps that you can use to pull your pet up or to hold onto to keep him stable when he walks.  These specialized harnesses can be lifesavers for pets with weak or paralyzed rear legs—and back savers for their owners!

For older pets and for those with balance or neck issues, it can be difficult to bend down to the floor to eat or drink, so get a raised feeder to put the food and water bowls at higher levels.  For pets who can no longer stand to eat, place non-skid rubber mesh under their food and water bowls on the floor so that they don’t skid around while your pet is trying to eat.  Remember, every extra pound of body weight can make it even more difficult for any pet; dog, cat, or otherwise, to move, so don’t overindulge your pet with cookies and treats.   Keeping him at his ideal body weight is a much greater kindness than any treat could ever be. 

Leak Busters
Incontinence can be a real problem for older pets or those with special needs.  If your dog or cat has incontinence issues, consider disposable or washable diapers or male diaper wraps to catch accidental drips and plops.  Absorptive training pads, used for housebreaking puppies, can be real timesavers if your pet leaks urine when she sleeps or if you have to manually express her bladder.  Just put one or two under her wherever she sleeps or when expressing to catch the urine.  You might also want to have some waterless shampoo on hand to clean her up quickly if she gets urine on her skin or fur.  And to avoid urine scald, a rash that occurs when urine stays on a pet’s skin too long, use an anti-infective, anti-bacterial moisture barrier like Barricare to add a protective layer between the urine and her skin. 

There is also a special bedding pad you can buy that will wick urine away from your pet’s skin if she is incontinent.  A spin-off of the hospital pads developed to eliminate bed sores, Palace Bedding, has a thick, 1-1/4″ pile that pulls urine away from your pet’s body so that she won’t sleep in a puddle if she leaks.  What’s more, if your dog or cat has arthritis or bony elbows or hips, Palace Bedding’s thick nap will cushion and protect her joints while she rests and help her to avoid pressure sores if she lies on one side for too long, 

And So to Bed
Dogs and cats who have a hard time stepping up will find beds with raised edges difficult to use, so give them beds that have low edges or none at all.  If your pet has neck problems, be sure to use a bed with no edges.  Pets can exacerbate existing neck issues when they hang their heads over the sides of raised-edge beds.  In the fall and winter, your arthritic dog or cat will appreciate a heated bed, but in fact, he may appreciate it all year round.  While there are a host of orthopedic beds available today, be careful you don’t buy one that is too soft or spongy if your pet has balance or coordination problems as he will find it difficult to get in or out. 

February 8th, 2009 by admin

Puppies are cute cuddly and so full of life throughout the infancy stage. It is at this time when puppy training is vital – because believe it or not these cute cuddly little characters can cause so much havoc in the home – with their outbursts of action packed antics all brought on by excitement.

Fun it may be at the time but when you waken to find the remains of a chewed slipper- scratch marks on the furniture and puppy poo to mark the pup`s presence then it is time for an obedience check.

How do you go about house training a puppy – simple the same as you would potty train a baby? Yes your right it will take time and patience but all worthwhile in the end.
To be honest the whole process of puppy training can be quite fulfilling as well as fun. There will be times when you may get frustrated throughout the process but just the fact that you have accomplished what others would see as impossible is an achievement in its self. To have an obedient dog standing at the side of its master (you) will make you proud to be the canines owner. Even evening walks are so much more enjoyable with an obedient dog.

You have to think about safety for yourself and that of your pooch if they are not trained. Dangers by the roadside and where children are concerned – have to be a couple of vital factors why puppy training is important.
Puppies need to use the bathroom regular sometimes as much as up to 8 to 10 visits a day – this gradually lessons to about 3 to four times at 30 weeks old
Our little four legged friends are clean animals but still need nurturing with correction lessons teaching them right from wrong.

If you are going to kennel/crate train the puppy then build the shelter to accommodate the size of the dog to have comfort. Section the kennel in half while the puppy is small and as he/she begins to grow then remove the partition. By not splitting the shelter in two the pup may decide to go to the back of the crate and leave their mark there.

The kennel/crate should be big enough to permit the dog to stand easily and stretch. As long as the dog can manoeuvre around then that is all that matters.
Timing is crucial when puppy training – have a doggie diary with a schedule of times and adhere to them. Work this pattern around what is best suited for you and your dog.

For example: 10 to 10:30 am. lead the puppy from the enclosure outside and always keep to the same spot every day. The puppy will get used to this allotted space and in time will make his or her own way there. Remember puppies are like babies they need feeding. Times for this is best after the first morning release – approx about 30 minutes. A little later let the puppy out for a friendly romp in the garden for a play without commands.

Leading the puppy from the kennel is an action you have to repeat over and over again at the scheduled times you have logged in your doggie diary.
Before retiring to blanket street take the puppy outside again and let them have a little time to investigate and nosey around – in other words sniffing every nook and cranny.

If you are serious with this practice then the puppy`s needs have to be checked again around 3 am in the morning. It is a good idea to have a catchphrase for the pup to relate to. Words like (want to poo poo) will do the trick. When your puppy is at your side and obeying your commands it is then you will know why that famous saying came about – GOOD DOGGIE.

January 7th, 2009 by admin

Dogs, in their natural state, are pack animals. We tend to think of them simply as autonomous pups and don’t often consider their immutable core nature as pack animals, however. This failure to take into account the true nature of dogs can make training more difficult. Likewise, understanding what it means to be a pack animal can unlock one of trainings greatest secrets.

Dogs, in packs, have leaders. The leadership role in dog packs is one of great influence. Other dogs in the pack naturally subordinate themselves to leadership and will look to their leader for guidance and instruction.

Of course, domesticated dogs don’t travel in packs. Instead, they build a pack based on those with whom they regularly interact. In essence, the owner and the owners family members or close friends become the dogs pack.

This creates a wonderful opportunity for dog trainers. By casting yourself as the leader of your dogs pack, the dog will naturally tend to follow your lead, will naturally feel inclined to respect you and will demonstrate an instinctive need to learn from you. Since a dogs real social structure will always be seen through the innate canine perspective of packs and leaders, it only makes sense for trainers to take advantage of this by assigning roles for both pet and master that will make dog training especially effective.

There are several things a trainer can do to emulate being a pack leader. These techniques will allow your dog to find what he will rightfully feel is his place in your familys social order and will make him substantially more amenable to your training. Some may say it is as easy as as making sure the dog knows who is the boss, but that is an oversimplification. Being bossy is not the same as being a leader. Simply trying to enforce your will on a dog does not necessarily communicate to him that you are truly the pack leader. The talented trainer will understand this and will take specific actions to emulate a pack leader.

Some expert-recommended techniques include:

Consistency

Good leaders are consistent enforcers of rules and regulations. Leaders who too often look the other way are not taken seriously. A dog will notice whether your rules and expectations are consistently maintained and may even test your mettle upon occasion, pushing the boundaries of established behavioral norms to determine who is really in charge. By being a wholly consistent leader, you are likely to establish yourself as being the head of your pack and your dog will then be much more apt to follow your lead.

Respect

Leaders are respected not just as an arbitrary outgrowth of their assigned position but because of how they behave in that role. A firm, but fair leader is far more likely to be admired and followed. One must be firm with their dog when training, but cannot hold unreasonable expectations or enforce their rules with violence or punishment. A good pack leader can still use the positive-reinforcement techniques that have been proven the core of successful training. Being a respectful leader will create a respectful follower in your dog. Their submission to you should be premised in respect and appreciation, not in fear or humiliation.

Interaction

The successful pack leader will interact with his dog in ways that reinforce the notion of the social hierarchy. Dogs, for instance, look for cues from leadership in the eyes. By maintaining eye contact with your pet during training, he will better understand your role as leader. Likewise, it is desirable to occasionally demand your dogs attention while walking, playing or during more intense training sessions. By commanding your dog to heel and to look at you, for instance, you will further reinforce your position as pack leader.

Unlocking the power of being a pack leader can make training much more effective. With roles clearly established, one can avoid much of the struggle others may experience while training their pets. Additionally, by assigning yourself the role of pack leader you create an environment in which your dog will naturally look to you for its guidance. Pack leadership is an essential component to any fully optimized training program.

 

 

Source

November 17th, 2008 by admin

In my experience, as a dog owner, it can be a nightmare to find a rental home that allows dog(s). All you have to do is look in the classifieds under rentals to see why. Probably 95- 100 percent of the ad will state no pets.

The few that will allow dogs sometimes will only allow a small dog. The ad may even state a specific weight like 20 lbs or less. I never understood this. A small dog can be just as destructive as any big dog can. I have also seen many small dogs who were much more vocal than some big dogs. I have even seen little dogs that were extremely aggressive. So what is the benefit to a landlord to allow a small dog but not a large dog. I would love to know the answer to this question because it has never made any sense to me.

Lord help you if you dare to have more than one dog things get even more complicated. Even the type of dog can cause undo problems for a dog owner. I remember when we had 2 dobermans. The landlord was ok with us having 2 dogs in the beginning. After we moved in he stopped by and realized they were dobermans and had all kinds of problems with it. I think part of it was a house insurance issue. Which is a whole other topic I would like to discuss at another time.

However there are things you can do to help persuade a potential landlord. First of all make sure you dog is well behaved. Maybe even put him through the good citizen course. Upon completion he will get a certificate for it. This basically says your dog has passed a test of basic manors and is well behaved. This certificate can be used to show your new landlord that your dogs are well behaved.

Once I called a landlord that had a listing that said absolutely no pets, even though I had 2 dogs and a cat at the time. The place was perfect for us and had all the things we were looking for. I felt like we had nothing to lose so I called them. I asked them if they were willing to meet us and our dogs and see how well behaved they were. When we met with them they saw that the dogs were very well behaved. Seeing us make the extra effort for our dogs may have help sway them also. At that time we also offered a separate cash deposit for the pets. Part of it was to be non refundable and part was refundable after a year. I think a non refundable deposit for a pet is more than reasonable. The landlord should be able to clean carpets and treat for fleas regardless if there are any just for peace of mind for the next tenant.

The other portion was a refundable deposit. We allowed walkthroughs once a month for the 1st three months to ensure them that the dogs were not doing any damage to their property. After one year they walked through again and refunded our deposit although we continued to live there after the first year.

Cash security deposits can be an additional incentive to help convince a landlord to trust you and give your dog(s) a chance. The deposit affords them some protection in the event that damage is caused by the dog(s). Your deposit shows the landlord that you trust your dog not to cause damage. I love when I feel like I have helped convert a landlord to be a pet friendly renters. I hope that anyone given the chance to rent with a dog respects the opportunity they are given. Each time a landlord has a good experience renting to a dog owner the better it is for the next dog owner. All it takes to do this is to be a good dog owner. If your dog does happen to damage something make sure it is repaired before you move out.

References can also be a big help in bolstering your case to a potential landlord. You could even invite you potential landlord to visit you at your current place. This gives your potential landlord a chance to physically see that your dog is not destructive. Be creative you know can sometimes change a landlords mind with a well behaved dog and some incentives. Landlords are just worried that there rental will get destroyed sometimes they just need to be shown that it does not have to be that way.

I would say that the majority of adult dogs are not destructive. I also believe that when it comes to puppies the risk is far less now do to the increasing use of crate training.. Crate training young dogs and puppies drastically reduces the opportunity for a pup to cause damage in the home.

Having done some painting over the years for some landlords I have seen my share of damaged apartments. I am here to tell you that human being do far more damage than any dog I have ever seen. The worst I have seen dog wise most commonly is when the dog owners leave these poor dogs locked up or left behind to defecate all over the place. More realistically the landlord will have to freshen the carpets and maybe plant a little grass seed. I have owned many dogs over the years and honestly any damage that has been done was usually to our stuff not the structure of the house. Examples shoes. remote controls. pillows couches etc. The only damage to any home from any dog I have had has been a few scratches in the wood by the door and maybe some grass missing from wear in the back yard.

November 17th, 2008 by admin

As a dog owner, most of us have had to deal with an ear problem or two over the years. Unfortunately some ear problems are persistent and chronic.

Some breeds are more prone to develop ear problems than others. Cocker Spaniels are one of these breeds. In general dogs with long floppy ears have more ear problems than dogs with erect ears. The hanging ears create a warm moist environment perfect for bacteria to grow.

When your dog has a problem with his ears there are usually signs but not always. Usually in erect eared dogs you can see some redness or swelling. Sometimes you can smell a bad odor coming from your dog. If you do detect an odd odor from your dog it is a good idea to check his ears for any problems.

Ear problems can be very itchy sometimes. A dog will often scratch at their ears or even rub them on the floor to get some relieve. This constant itching often causes more damage to the ear if left untreated. If the ears get to painful to scratch a dog will often resort to shaking his head. Sometimes an owner does not always connect the head shaking to an ear problem until it is too late.

Constant head shaking will eventually cause hematomas. The violent head shaking causes broken blood vessels in the ear flap. The blood has nowhere to go so it pools in the ear flap causing a blood bubble. This is called a hematoma.

Hematomas usually need to be surgically opened and allowed to drain. As you can see quick treatment is best. Treatment usually consists of ear drops and antibiotics. This is far less expensive for you and less traumatic for your dog.

Ear problems are often connected to other allergies. I had two dogs with skin problems that fell into this category. Extra care also needs to be taken with dogs that like to swim. Always dry their ears well and you may want to ask your vet about an ear product that helps dry and or keep the ear dryer. There are several products for this purpose.

I have two dogs right now that have had ear problems in the past. One is a German Shepherd and the other is a Siberian Husky and both have erect ears. It seemed about every 3-6 months their ears would get red and itchy. Treatment with antibiotics and drops did help but the problem would reoccur. Over the years I have tried some home remedies to help soothe itchy ears and prevent future incidents. I did find that zinc powder such as gold bond did seem to give temporary relief and sometimes resolved the problem if caught quickly.

After all these years I have found a home remedy that has worked like magic for me and others. It is tea tree oil. I had been looking into natural remedies for our family and picked up some tea tree oil. It has many uses. It is used for itching and can be added to shampoo. It is also good to clean abrasions. it has antibiotic and anti fungal properties. I suggest you read more about it and decide for yourself but we think it is a wonderful thing to have around for your family and pets.

Anyway one of the dog’s ears were getting red and itchy again so i wiped them out with the tea tree oil and we did not have another problem for about 6 months. the next time I did the same and now it has been about 2 years since either dog have had a problem with their ears.

I have recommended this to a few people with very good results also. My sister was one of them. Her dog Bella has chronic ear problems. Each year they seemed to get worse. the last time she had to have surgery to drain a really bad hematoma. After she healed from than incident I recommended the tea tree oil and she has not had any further problems since.

I am not saying it will work for everyone but if all else fails you may want to try it. I know it has been wonderful solution for many of us. You can find tea tree oil in many stores in the 1st aid isle usually or at health stores such as G.N.C.

I would love to hear feed back from anyone who tries the tea tree oil.

November 15th, 2008 by admin

After you have taught your dog to sit consistently you can move to the sit stay command. See “How To Teach Your Dog To Sit“. When I say consistently I mean he will sit for you in a quiet house as well outside in the backyard with a bunch of people and activity. You always want to cement one command before adding on to it.

Now that you have a solid sit and he will sit under all circumstances we can move on. The next command is the sit stay. This is basically a much longer sit then just a sit command. Personally in everyday life I would never use a sit stay. If I wanted my dog to stay a good length of time I would put him in a down stay. That being said lets move on.

Start with your dog on your left. Sit your dog. Then with the leash in your left hand signal your dog to stay. To do this you bring your right hand across, palm open in front of your dog’s face and say “stay”. As you do this pivot around and stand facing your dog. Keep your arm straight out fingers pointing up palm facing your dog. It will look like you are stopping traffic. Count to 5 and return to your dog’s side the same way you left him. Make sure to keep your hand in front of your dog until you are back at his side. Praise and release. To release your dog after a command you can say “okay” and walk a few seconds with your dog. It can even be just a few steps in between commands.

I suggest you use a flat buckle collar to teach your dog new commands. For sit stay I would turn the collar so the clip is up. This way when your attach the leash and hold it above his head it helps convey to him not to move. The tension on the leash and the hand signal in combination help him understand what you want. If you did not use these your dog would instinctively want to move when you do. If your dog does move quickly step in towards him saying “no” and put him back where he was when he broke the command. When you say “no” say it quick kind of like a distraction. Sometimes I use a quick “hey” or “ep” sound. Right now we are teaching so do not be harsh with him. I use the vocal distraction to give the dog feed back so he knows where he went wrong so to speak.

When teaching commands I like to repeat the command. So as you step around in front of your dog with your hand out I would repeat “stay stay stay”. When you say “stay” you need to say it evenly. If you use a high or excited voice your dog will want to come to you. You also do not want to say it so firm as the dog feels that he is being scolded either. Some trainers feel like you should only say the command once and that is it. Now I do believe that once your dog truly knows the command you should not repeat it over and over. If you do he will learn that he does not have to listen the first time. But I think that has to do with obeying and that is a different phase then the teaching phase. As he learns the sit-stay command you need to phase out repeating “stay stay stay” . You will also test him with just a hand signal or just a verbal command. Use what you need as long as you need to. When he seems to understand the command but you are using verbal, hand, and repeating of commands reduce the repeating until you only have to say it once. Then reduce hand signal to a quick hand signal in front of his face in stead of holding your hand in front of his face the whole time.

Always start in a quiet place but change environment as he improves. When he understands the command add some distractions. this improves his attention to you and the command. After he really understands this command you can start to increase the amount of time he stays and the distance from you. The rule is not to increase both at the same time. You can start by going 3 feet in front of your dog but still keep it 5 seconds. Or you could stay in front of him but make it 10 or 15 seconds. Never increase either until he is perfect in the time or distance you have previously set. In other words if he can not stay for 15 seconds do not try to do 30 seconds. As always start in a quiet spot and test in a different spot with distractions before you move on to longer times or distances.

November 15th, 2008 by admin

The sit command is probably the first command most people teach their dog. It has many practical uses and can be applied to many situations. A dog in sit position can not be involved in another activity such as jumping etc. It is also often used as a way of asking your permission and showing respect to you as the leader.

Often dogs are taught to sit before the are allowed to eat or go out. This basically teaches and reinforces to your dog that you are the leader. Teaching your dog to sit before he goes out or eats or goes up the stairs is also very practical.

A dog racing you up the stairs or bolting out an open door can be dangerous especially if you have children. A dog that is taught to sit before it goes out a door is less likely to run out the door when a child opens it also. Children that are old enough should ask the dog to sit as well before going out or feeding them. It helps let the dog know where his place is in the family pack. Your dog’s place in the pack should always be at the bottom.

There are two basic ways of teaching the sit command. The first is to put your dog on a leash and place him on your left side. With the leash in right take your left hand and slightly push on the top of your dog’s butt and push down. When his bottom touches then you say “sit”. This way he understands that sit is when his bottom is on the ground. This was the way I was taught in my first dog training class. Some dogs did fine with this but some resisted. The owners that had dogs that resisted were told to squeeze hard right in front of the dogs hip bones as they pressed. If your dog does sit with the gentle version of this fine. If not move on to my on to the second way to teach a sit.

The second way to teach a sit is really the best way to it. In fact I think it is the only way a sit should be taught. Even if you are gentle with the above method it still won’t work for some dogs. Some dogs are very sensitive to touch. When you touch them it actually distracts them from learning. And the rough version is unacceptable to me. Learning should be fun not painful and frustrating for you or your dog. The method I prefer to use to teach a sit is lure training. It is basically what it sounds like. You use a piece of food or maybe your dogs favorite toy to lure him into a sit.

Take the lure item and hold it close to your dogs nose and lift if up and behind towards his back. Do not let him grab it from you until his bottom touches the ground. When his bottom touches the ground say “sit”. There is no point saying sit to your dog before he actually learns what it means. If your dog keeps scooting back place him with his behind close to a corner. When he has nowhere to back up to he will hopefully sit for you.

After some practice he will learn to sit faster because he is starting to get it. He is learning that he does not get anything until he sits. When he starts sitting quickly you know he probably understands. To really test this you say sit without the lure in front of him. If he sits give him his reward. If he does sit on command over and over you know he understands the meaning of the word. Now when you train mix up the rewards. On the first sit maybe give him a treat. The second time maybe pet him a little. The third time just tell him excitedly what a good boy he is. This causes some confusion because he never knows when he is going to get a treat so he will sit each time. You do not want a dog who will only sit when he knows you have food.

Adding a hand signal for sit is pretty easy. You may want to teach this in case you are unable to tell him verbally to sit such as if he is at a far distance from you or talking on the phone. The hand signal is similar to the movement of luring into a sit. Start with your right arm down at your side, palm open bend your all the way up. By using the verbal command “sit” and the hand signal together it connects the two. Test your dog by just using the hand signal alone. If he does not sit using the hand signal alone go back to using both together. Eventually he will sit with either the hand signal or verbal signal.

After your dog learns to sit you need to clarify what sit means. Sit does not just mean to put your bottom on the floor. It means to sit and not get up until you release your dog. So after he understands the basic sit you want to ask more of him. To release your dog you say “okay”. You want to move him out of the sit as you say “okay”. You can do this by encouraging him to move forward and out of the sit. You can do this by moving back way from him or gently with the leash or collar. If he pops up before the command try to say “okay” as he comes up anyway. Either way it helps him make the connection. A good example is he is on the leash by your side in the sit position. As you say “okay’ you start to walk. Your movement and gently pull on the leash will encourage him out of the sit. As you progress you will move into the sit stay command. The sit stay indicates to your dog that he will be in the sit for some time.

Always make training fun. Keep each session short and successful. Always quit while your dog is doing well and you are happy. If you train to long he can get bored and stop working for you and you will get frustrated as well. You are always better off training 2 or 3 shorter lesson a day rather than one that is too long. For a puppy I would only train a few minutes at at a time working up to 15 minutes. Your puppy will let you know when the lesson is getting to long. If this happens adjust the lessons accordingly.

When we got our husky Buddy we found that although he was smart he was stubborn. At least that was what I thought then because he would learn a command quickly but would not necessarily do it over and over. I learned that he was not stubborn or stupid just not motivated. A lot of dogs will do something for you just to please you or for food(such as the Labrador). Apparently my Husky was more of a what’s in it for my dog. I thought about it from his point of view. What does Buddy love? Buddy loves to play. So I made a game out of it. When ever he sat or downed for me on command we would run a little. Sounds silly but that was his motivator. He loved it. It just made training fun for him. So if your dog is not motivated by food, praise or toys this may just be the ticket for you. It is a very good way for kids to train since it puts them in control of the fun their dog has when he listens.

Well good luck to all and as always keep it fun.

November 15th, 2008 by admin

The way you speak and move are very important in dog training. Your tone of voice and body language can actually be used as additional tools that can aid you in training your dog.

Dogs to not speak in words but do communicate to each other with an assortment of barks, grunts, yips, and growls. By using different tones we can mimick growls and yips etc. therefore conveying information to our dogs.

I will break it down into three overly simplified groups. The first is a high tone. This higher tone creates excitement in a dog. Excitement will encourage your dog to move and be active. This also you should use a high tone for praise. When you want your dog to come to you the higher tone is the best one to use. It creates the excitement you want which causes him to come quickly to you. It creates the needed enthusiasm you want for a quick recall.

A medium tone is what I would call a neutral tone. It is calming and is not really a reactive tone. This is the perfect tone to give a non moving command such as sit, stand, down, and stay.

Low or gutteral tones are usually reserved for stopping or reprimanding a dog for inappropriate behavior. It is the equivalent of a dog’s growl. It can be used as a vocal correction. Remember you do not need to yell, it is the sound of the low firm tone that tells the dog you are not happy with him.

Just as important is the way we use our body during training. When using body language you need to take your dog’s temperment into consideration. What may work for a dominant dog may overwhelm a very shy or submissive dog.

Author : Laura Walsh

[source: Dog Gone News]